Textural Collage - Wilson PK AW 15/16Posted by Jo on Monday 9th March 2015
From real butterflies encapsulated in clear plastic to bathroom door locks for fastenings - the world of Wilson PK certainly made for a visual impact.
Since graduating from Central Saint Martins and working in the studios of Alexander Wang and Iris van Herpen, Wilson PK has branched out on his own and gained the attention of the H.R.H Prince of Wales Campaign for Wool, the Umbria Cashmere District Award and a splash in Vogue to boot. While this all sounds very exclusive and highbrow Wilson is a keen advocate of mixing hierarchies and is inspired by the city’s clashes of modern skyscrapers with run-down council estates.
As Wilson PK socializes amongst his guests he comes across as very approachable and easy going, he tells me about his regular stints for the housing and homelessness charity Shelter while mentioning a top-end designer department store in the next sentence.
As you walk around the collection Wilson PK successfully demonstrates a range of textures that contrast and yet work together. From light-as-air organza to stiff leather and sculptural knits, the overall feel is architectural and highly creative.
Metallic foiled pleats are combined with graphic leather patches in clean minimal lines and he evokes the notion of the bathroom with his glossy, pale blue collarless jacket complete with door locks. Gaining plenty of attention was Wilson PK’s butterfly dress, real butterflies encased in clear plastic, immortalized forever. Wilson tells me that, “I worked with an artist to create these pieces. The butterflies only live for a week so this was a way to preserve them.”
While this all might sound a bit macabre and gimmicky to some Wilson PK displayed plenty of desirable pieces that would do well in a contemporary woman’s wardrobe. Four live models then walked around the presentation space and took a plinth of their own. It was good to see the collection on the human form and on the move, so to speak. “I always show my work on models as well, buyers want to see how the collection works on the body.”
Key colours worked around black, metallic silver, pearlized white, pale blue, mustard yellow and emerald green. The detail was in the structure and cut and with some of the designs Wilson demonstrated complex pleating and moulding techniques. Clearly a designer that likes to experiment but with the commercial savvy to know where to stop. I am sure we will be seeing more from Wilson PK very soon.
Words and Images by JoJo Iles