Le Cult Couturier

 

 

‘Cult Couturier’ Ziad Ghanem likes to break the rules by combining demi-couture techniques with raw street elements. Established as a London based ready-to-wear designer Ziad is breaking new ground with his bespoke designs and private commissions. JoJo Iles popped over to his west London studio to discuss his fashion journey and more…

 

 

After several seasons of ready to wear and collaborative projects with LVMH-Celux boutique in Tokyo, plus a top-selling “I Love London” range for high street giant TopMan, Ziad has come full circle with the couture side of his business. His work now focuses on made-to-order bespoke designs; it’s this demi-couture approach that has generated clients from all over the globe. Of course, all those Ghanem elements are present and correct from his patchwork effects to his humorous printed messages.

 

 

Creativity flowed through Ziad’s veins from a very young age. Growing up in war torn Lebanon he escaped his incredibly bleak surroundings by the use of his imagination. Whether holed up in bomb shelters or not, Ziad would continue to dream and draw while his mother would continue to dress-up.

 

 

Through-out the 80’s the war grew more terrifying and Ziad’s family had no choice but to relocate to another town. “It was really horrific, we lost everything, our house got destroyed and my parents went downhill – both socially and financially,” Ziad remembers. “That was the hardest time of my life and I really felt the need to get away.”

 

 

 

 

By his late-teens Ziad began to plan his route out and set his sights on fashion. He got his regular fix of British style via the pages of iD and The Face. Ever since he could remember Ziad found the UK intriguing: “Vivienne Westwood, Helen Storey, Malcolm McLaren, the Queen, the history, the lovely cup of tea, the British sense of humour and of course the rainy weather,” he quips.

 

 

Ziad landed a job as an illustrator at a Lebanese fashion house and promptly began saving his wages. As soon as he had enough by the late 80s Ziad fled to Paris where an exhausting job search relocated him to Dubai. His new job introduced him to the world of beaded textiles, embellishments and tailoring. “I developed really good skills in beading and embroidery and I loved it when some of the clients asked me to customize their pieces. One client gave me a Christian Lacroix couture dress to customize – it took all my courage just to cut one sleeve.”

 

 

Having put in his hours in Dubai Ziad decided it was time to make his fashion name in Britain. “London was the lover I had always searched for,” enthuses Ziad. But it wasn’t all plain sailing on the job front: “Living during the war was easier than breaking into fashion,”he jests. He did his fair share of domestic work before bagging a position as a sales assistant at Harvey Nichols. His lunch breaks would be spent checking out the very latest designs and making mental notes of how they were put together.

 

 

It wasn’t long before Ziad got itchy feet and started up his own label. “I wanted my designs and ideas to provide an escape from reality, especially after a long working week,” says Ziad. “I planned to create luxurious pieces with accessible fabrics such as cotton and fleece.” But he was in for yet another shock - when he discovered how much money he would need to put his first collection together. Depressed by the prospect of not fulfilling his fashion ambition Ziad felt like he was sinking.

 

 

 

 

“That was until, one Christmas, I saw Madonna singing live on telly. She was inspirational and all about determination - making your mark, I just thought there and then - if she can do it so can I.”

 

 

 

Already known for his practical fabrics fashioned into striking silhouettes Ziad has taken his bespoke designs to a whole new level with the inclusion of recycled textiles. Vintage t-shirts and a patchwork combination of contrasting fabrics are all re-worked into one couture piece. “In just one of my dresses you can find Versus, M&S, Laura Ashley, Junior Gaultier, Gap and a vintage Sex Pistols t-shirt,” he comments.

 

 

Forget same outfit faux pas, made-to-order is on the up – and Ziad has already seen the benefits: “The label is going really well, I love dealing with people face to face, that way I can create something that fits the personality as well as the shape.” With a client list that takes him all over the world Ziad is certainly one busy bee, expect to see more from Mr Ghanem in the very near future.

 

 

 

 

Images of Ziad Ghanem’s Couture line by Ram Shergill