The All-New British Style Genius- Ziad Ghanem

When it comes to fashion London has long been heralded as the place to discover the innovative, the cutting-edge, the avant-garde. There’s no doubt that Alexander McQueen cemented this notion, and was, in fact instrumental in shaping British fashion over the past decade. News of his tragic death shocked the industry to the core, not only would his designs be missed but so would his highly conceptual shows. As any fashion insider would be happy to testify; getting an invitation to the Alexander McQueen show was like a child winning a golden ticket to Willy Wonka’s Chocolate Factory.

 

McQueen tribute wall at LFW

 

As London Fashion Week pressed on the fashion pack mourned McQueen with personal messages on his tribute wall and we all understood we had lost an irreplaceable soul. Feeling somewhat sombre that the drama – the unrelenting creative spirit had practically disappeared from the catwalk London’s On|Off initiative exposed an unexpected surprise in the shape and form of Ziad Ghanem.

The music, the models, the make-up, and of course, the clothes fully embraced drama from start to finish. Part performance part show Ziad literally got his audience on their feet and cranking their necks to see more as he merged old school couture with Brazilian burlesque and a side order of urban attitude.

Dubbed the ‘cult couturier’ by the fashion press Ziad has gained a staunch global following that includes industry stylists and celebrities. Hailing from Lebanon Ziad relocated to London in the late 90’s eager to start his own fashion line. Primarily known as a ready-to-wear designer Ziad shifted his business towards a bespoke direction over the last few years. We caught up with him post London Fashion Week to find out more about his visionary designs plus various other fashion musings…

 

Polly backstage at Ziad Ghanem

 

JoJo: Wow, what a fantastic show, you must be thrilled with such a positive response to the collection (the audience gave Ziad a standing ovation).

Ziad: I am so thankful and grateful for all the great feedback. My audience is an important part of my show. I thought I’d get a standing ovation when I am eighty years old, since it seems people only acknowledge artists when they are old and retiring…ha ha. But I am very honoured that it has happened now and it means the show has moved people emotionally so much so it literally got their asses off the chairs!

JoJo: Tell us a bit about your collection ‘Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds’…

Ziad: Lucy is about the fading world of couture. It is a tribute the drama in fashion and the art of dressing and undressing.

 

Backstage at Ziad Ghanem

 

JoJo: You tend to feature a broad range of models (size, age, gender etc) in your shows – is it important for you to work with unique individuals as opposed to sample size agency models?

Ziad: I make and design my clothes to dress people not imaginary super heroes. Using super-thin non-realistic models in fashion is a high form of rejecting the human’s general natural shape and body. Thin or thick, small or big, they are in my show because they inspire me…true my models are my inspiration and they are in my show because they love dressing up and love my work too. I refuse to force my clothes on any odd model from an agency. My clothes are made on my model sizes, and are an exaggeration of their character and looks. Without the people in my show there would be no clothes, so I am grateful for their inspiration.

JoJo: What about the performance aspect in your shows – is this something that evolves alongside the collection?

Ziad: My shows are always about the drama. Fashion has lost most of its excitement and drama. With the internet anyone can see the new collections online, and all is so dull – a dress on a stick. You see one you’ve seen them all. Where is the show factor? I like my shows to be underground and encompass theatre and drama, my audience want to see that and it is value for their time and effort. Excluding the westend shows I aim to be the hottest ticket in town. Ha ha ha!

 

JoJo: How important is being London based to your work?

Ziad: I am inspired by London. I am grateful for the freedom and support that this city has given me. I am British at heart.

JoJo: Do you think London is still the creative, avant-garde melting pot that the press makes out it is?

Ziad: Sure it is, but sadly not many people have the chance to show their work because of the major lack of support for young talent. The club scene plays a big part too in promoting this image of London and unfortunately the heyday of 2006/07 has died down a lot. I feel like the avant-garde scene has become much suppressed and people have changed. I call it the ‘souvenir era’ people wanting a quick fix and wanting it all now.

JoJo: You were also involved with Eco Chic this year could you tell us a bit about your environmental / ethical views?

Ziad: I am fair trade and ethical when it comes to working with people. I try to source also lots of sustainable materials and organic fabrics that are environmentally friendly. I am not trying to save the world, but I choose to use ethical methods to show my respect to the planet. People please be kind to other fellow people and in turn be kind to the planet.

 

Ziad Ghanem A/W 10-11

 

JoJo: Could you divulge any future plans for your label?

Ziad: It is more exclusive than ever, you can not find it in a shop and you need to come for a consultation. Humans need more than food to survive and I like to provide something that is more personal and unique to each individual. My label is Bespoke/ Couture and I am happy with that direction.

JoJo: What not to wear…is there any item of clothing you think is truly horrible?

Ziad: Wear what is comfortable and what makes you feel good. I wear the first clean shirt I pick up from my closet! However, fur is horrible…if you can not eat the meat of the fox then don’t wear its fur.

Thank you so much Ziad – want to see more of Ziad’s work then go to his website www.ziadghanem.co.uk

By JoJo Iles

Catwalk images: Christopher Dadey

www.christopherdadey.com

Backstage/close-up images: Kai Narin

www.wix.com/narink92/cem-photography