Fashion Will Always Have Paris - S/S 2011

Milan may have touted vibrancy and head-to-toe colour for Spring/Summer 11 but Paris thus far is leaning towards a mood that's all futuristic and sleek.

Balenciaga kick started the proceedings with boxy tunics and vests that nodded to a boyish vibe, super-shiny techno fabrics in clean block shapes were juxtaposed with natural fibres while the styling was pure rockabilly meets urban warrior. Overall Nicolas Ghesquière combined a taste for the future with contemporary urban references.

Meanwhile, Brit boy Gareth Pugh showed off his immaculate cutting skills with a very accomplished S/S collection. Jackets encased the body like folds of armour while floaty chiffons softened Pugh's razor-sharp edges. Sticking to a limited palette of pale gray, black and metallic silver Pugh appeared to have taken inspiration from the East - Samari warrior and kimono-esque silhouettes combined with a strong sense of symmetry.

This time around Pugh opted to introduce his collection via a digital film presentation. Directed by Ruth Hogben and featuring Kristen McMenamy the film mesmerized the fashion pack and presented the collection beautifully. So much so that we were all left wondering if the straight up and down catwalk show has had its day?

After a brief flirt with London last season Turkish-born designer Hakaan Yildirim took on the big guns in Paris thanks to winning this year’s ANDAM award. In keeping with pared-down future chic mood Hakaan presented plenty of form fitting shapes rarely straying from the clean cut shades of black, ivory and white. Far from simple Hakaan’s pieces contour the female form, he sculpts, he pin-tucks, he cuts away – the result is very elegant but with a Hakaan contemporary twist.

Remaining on the future chic bent new boy on the block – Pedro Lourenço got geometric with leather in a way not seen before. Sharp cuts of leather were fused with the sheerest stretch tulle which enabled Lourenço to create graphic cut-away sections - giving the appearance of bare skin. Architectural in precision this is the second time the young nineteen-year-old has got the fashion pack in a tizz and while the designs may not be the most wearable on the catwalk Lourenço’s innovation, skill and confidence reveals a lot of promise indeed.

JoJo Iles