GRADUATE FASHION WEEK

It’s All About the Grads

From the London College of Fashion to Northumbria and back JoJo Iles checks out this year’s creative talent…

 

 

Fresh blood, exciting creativity and the prospect of finding fashions “next big thing” got those fashion pack regulars out in force. Casting their critical eyes over this year’s talent was the likes of Suzie Menkes, Iain R Webb, Hilary Alexander, Colin McDowell, Andrew Tucker, Vogue.com, Grazia, and a whole host of global trade publications.

 

While the main throng of colleges showed at the sweltering Graduate Fashion Week tent over in Battersea Park, The London College of Fashion decided to celebrate their centenary year by going it alone. Meanwhile, Central Saint Martins and postgraduate university Royal College of Art presented their own catwalk shows as per usual.

 

It seems there has never been a better time to be a fashion graduate with head-hunters and recruitment agencies from all over the globe all wanting a piece of UK creativity. For the first time, top fashion recruiters including Smith & Pye, Denza International, Success Appointments, People Marketing and Hudson Walker and Quest all took stands at the GFW tent. Along with Project Catwalk, who were on the look out for design entrants to compete in their second Sky One series.

 

Culminating in a Gala & Awards show, Graduate Fashion Week certainly attracted a strong industry turn-out. The champagne flowed and the canapés, true to form, looked better than they tasted. It was fantastic to see Caryn Franklin, who really does know a thing or two about fashion, host the show (a much welcome change after last years commentary debacle) and when Jeff Banks got on stage to present a Special Industry Award it almost felt like a BBC Clothes Show reunion. (Wouldn’t it be great of they brought that programme back?)

 

Fashion Promotion and Media Awards

 

Strategic Marketing Award – Irene Berley, Northumbria University

 

Creative Marketing Award – Neil Bennett, University of Central Lancashire

 

Daiziel + Pow Stand Design Award - Kingston University

 

Jon Adam Fashion Portfolio Award – Ella Jones, Kingston University

 

Textiles Award – Win-Sei Yau – London College of Fashion

 

Accessories Award – Michelle Alexander, Northumbria University

 

Boris Trambusti Fashion Imagery Award – Anna Murray, Ravensbourne College

 

“First Word” Journalism Award – Helen Sharpe, London College of Fashion

 

The Hearst Corporation Media & Design Award – Hannah Reed, London College of Fashion

 

River Island Brand Development Award – Clare O’Reilly, Northumbria University

 

Industry Achievement Award presented by Jeff Banks – Hilary Alexander from The Daily Telegraph, for her sharp journalistic view on the world of fashion

 

Visionary Knitwear Award – Abbie Storey, Winchester School of Art, University of Southampton

 

 

Zandra Rhodes Catwalk Textile Award – Emma Mudford, University of Northampton

As for the three top awards of the evening it was a hat-trick for the boys with menswear finally getting some much deserved attention:

 

 

 

1st Highly Commended River Island Award – Masa Hata, Ravensbourne College

 

 

 

2nd Highly Commended River Island Award – Liam Jackson, Manchester Metropolitan University

 

Winner of the River Island Gold Award and a generous £20,000 – James Lawrence, Northumbria University

 

 

Awards aside, I’d like to add extra shout outs for Somerset College of Art and Westminster University whose inspirations ranged from fine art to Frankie Goes to Hollywood - if you can’t have fun with your graduate collection when can you? While many bang on about commerciality, yes - we know that’s important too, many of this years grads seemed far too sensible for their own good. Hilary Alexander agreed; she felt that this years St Martins show “resembled a vicarage fete.” While Christopher Bailey, creative director of Burberry was full of praise for his old University – Westminster: "It was rebellious, rude and individual. Most fashion colleges are too afraid to shock."

 

 

 

Meanwhile, the LCF show presented 25 graduate collections and it was fantastic to see so much innovation and diversity. Each designer had something to offer in terms of creativity and new ideas while maintaining an essential balance of quality and commercial appeal.

 

Show highlights included; kinky Parisian chic by Kristina Nilsson, think skin tight rubber combined with sharp tailoring in hues of black, slate and an accent of acid yellow. Edward Khang provided tailoring with a twist with his exaggerated collars and unusual detailing, while Rebecca Yong revealed she wasn’t shy of colour with her flattering light-as-air collection in vibrant contrasting tones.

 

 

 

The 80s often provides a strong reference point for many a fashion student and this year a plethora of stretch jersey, leggings and batwing sleeves hinted at the era more than ever. Other cross-over trends to take note of included; a play on volume combined with fitted shapes, intricate panelling, random draping and dramatic collars. For the boys, meanwhile, Rukiat Shagaya had fun with nerdy dressing, Ichiro Suzuki bravely combined traditional checks, stripes and diamonds, while Clare Buckle gave her men a lean and clean silhouette with skinny bumster denims and fine fitted knits.

 

  

 

 

St Martins of course did offer some gems from the likes of Agnes Kolignan who presented decorative hand prints on head-to-toe body stockings and delicate frocks. A striking collection that landed her second runner-up position in the L’Oreal Professional Design Awards.

 

 

Meanwhile, first runner-up position went to Steve Jung and his range of tailored menswear contrasted with soft, gentle silhouettes and florals. As for the top prize - that went to Tatiana Simonian for her graphic and sleek range of tailored womenswear, although you’d almost think Francesca Versace had picked up the award considering the amount of press coverage dedicated to the niece of Donatella.

 

 

 

Finally, the Royal College of Art wrapped up grad show fever with an excellent presentation of 33 top-notch designers. The over-riding theme was internationalism, along with mix-and-match, whereby contrasting ideas are brought together to create something extraordinary and new. Think geisha meets Studio 54 by Eudon Choi or English public school boy combined with colourful Indian textiles as seen by Mayur Ghadialy. Personal favourites came from Nina Jensen-Collman and her beautiful collection of fitted knitwear and Lorna Burt’s sexy womenswear with a variety of influences ranging from surgical corsetry, Spanish oil paintings and Mariachi musicians.

 

 

 

Images courtesy of the various colleges, universities, Chris Moore www.catwalking.com and JoJo Iles www.fashionpr.co.uk