Fashion Speak from the International Catwalk Circuit

 

 

From Tokyo to Paris, its all go at the ready-to-wear collections as JoJo Iles finds out…

 

It’s been a tough old time for the fashion pack – another season another bi-annual trip around the international fashion circuit. Talk about being on the ball in the wardrobe department. Still, all part of the job at the end of the day.

 

While the international ‘big 4’ kicked off with New York some failed to notice that Japan had got in there a few days early with a Fashion Week of its own. Not ones to blow their own trumpet Tokyo previewed over 35 catwalk collections alongside numerous static exhibitions and collaborative events.

 

The overall result was a professional Fashion Week that attracted 22,400 people over the five day event.

 

 

Collection highlights included - Ato, Kamishima Chinami, Mode Acote, Lilith, Taishi Nobukuni, Potto and Somarta for shows that oozed creativity and looked right on the money for Spring/Summer 07.

 

Think elegant streamlined silhouettes that have a loose relaxed appeal; empire lines and smock shapes create volume while ruffles, pin-tucks, pleats and drapes provide the details. Light billowy fabrics are combined with clean lines and fuss-free layers.

 

The mood is pretty, wearable, with a nod to minimalism bar some unusual styling details. Key colours remain sombre: black, muted grey/blues and lots of nudes, neutrals and white. Those playing with colour included flashes of red, orange, fresh green and sorbet tones while intricate details and unusual finishes gave it all a stamp of individuality.

 

Meanwhile, London was put under the spotlight thanks to Armani’s ‘For One Night Only’ event attracting a heavy dose of glammed-up celebs.

 

On the catwalk front - hats off to organizers of OnIOff, despite a last minute change of location due to a fire at the Royal Academy, they managed to pull off a successful alternative to the BFC tents. Maybe the British Fashion Council should take note, surly door staff and long outdoor waits for the international press does not bode well for great reviews.

 

 

Through-out the week the newspapers devoted acres of copy to the “ban skinny models from the catwalk” story. Erin O’Connor spoke out in The Guardian defending London as a place where unusual, quirky models are celebrated and that her career would never have taken off if she started out anywhere but London.

 

 

Jean Paul Gaultier picked up the issue and clearly had some fun by featuring a plus size model in his retrospective Paris Fashion Week show.

 

Dressed in a black corset and lace-top stockings the model was more like a size 20 than an 8 or a 6. Shame all the other models were as slender as ever, still, at least it’s provoking debate on the topic.

 

From chat rooms and bulletins across the web the general consensus is that a happy medium of a size 12/14 would be nice.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There is no denying that fashion is a funny old world when regular front row behaviour consists of:

 

 

During the show: Look as bored as possible, make hardly any notes, comment about the models and before the show has even ended fidget about in preparation to leave.

 

Post-show: A quick obligatory clap for the designer. A mad rush out of the auditorium – I’m sooo busy don’t you know.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Back to the fashion and off-schedule London Fashion Week highlights included presentations from: Osman Yousefzada, Aganovich, Kaviar Gauche, and Elle4Lisa.

 

Julie Berube and Avsh Alom Gur also put on polished shows, the latter revealed a collection inspired by a desert island beach with the combination of raffia, floaty chiffons and large loop knits that resembled fishing nets – all given a contemporary Avsh Alom twist and the result met with much approval all round.

 

 

Meanwhile, on-schedule Preen, Gardem, John Rocha, Nicole Farhi and Hamish Morrow hit all the right spots. The big buzz of the week centred around Armani’s (Product) Red show; from the famous faces in attendance to the slick production of the whole event.

 

Plastered over every newspaper the following morning the show somewhat overshadowed this years Fashion Fringe, which incidentally was awarded to Gavin Douglas for his collection inspired by black Victorians.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Over to Milan and it was short, sharp and sexy galore. Looks like a long, lean pair of pins will take you a long way come next season.

 

It seems it was the turn of Burberry Prorsum when it came to invasions on the catwalk of the Peta kind. Funnily enough, there wasn’t a scrap of fur to be seen, what with it being the Spring/Summer collection.

 

What there was, in plentiful supply, however, was high-tech brocades, metallics, lace and silk in light and easy silhouettes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It seems like fashion is falling into two distinct camps next spring – either light, breezy shapes such as trapeze lines, belled skirts, swing jackets and wide-leg trousers. Or tight, fitted and sexy with cinched waists, body-hugging jerseys and skinny pants.

 

Of course there were those combining both and pleasing everyone all at once. Prada, as per usual, did her own thing, forget neutral shades, light layers and airiness Prada brought rich jewel tones and 40s couture to the cutting table.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Over in Paris it was picnic checks, romantic ruffles and baggy harem style pants at Yves Saint Laurent.

 

Stella McCartney embraced the relaxed bubble-licious mood and Sophia Kokosalaki displayed a rather beautiful collection of draped and pleated dresses - despite having the most unforgiving time slot on the extremely crowded schedule.

 

Dresses, by the way, have been prominent through-out – at least that’s one thing designers far and wide agree on.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Top 10 Spring/Summer 07 trends

 

  

 

1 Dresses – empire, tunic, smock, trapeze, mini

 

2 Wide-leg pants

 

3 Romantic frills, lace and chiffon

 

4 Body-hugging jerseys

 

5 Puff hems

 

6 Layering

 

7 High waists

 

8 Platform heels

 

9 Checks and dots

 

10 Accessories aplenty

 

 

By JoJo Iles

 

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