From Check City to the Dark Side – Menswear A/W 06/07

 

 

What do you get if you combine the Duke of Windsor with a pair of cowboy lovers and a dash of Dracula at midnight? The Autumn/Winter 06/07 menswear collections that’s what. Here we check out some of the key themes, trends, colours and fabrics….

 

Dashing & Dapper

Christopher Bailey is on a mission to get men to smarten up their act. His collection whips up a sleek dandy style that he said is inspired by the rather dapper Duke of Windsor. Think belted overcoats, three-piece suits, Chesterfield coats and lean cut trademark trench coats. And while that sounds a tad old-fashioned Bailey combines a contemporary feel with his excellent use of cut, colour and styling details. Elsewhere, it was rather dashing all round with English aristocracy providing lashings of inspiration. From Etro to Prada and Dolce & Gabbana the gentleman ruled with bow ties, waistcoats, pinstripes and sensible cardigans.  

 

 

The Dark Side

It would be easier to list who didn’t show black this season than who did. In fact you’d be hard pushed to find a collection free of the dark stuff. With this collective embrace of moody old black comes a touch of the dark side. The likes of Transylvanian Counts and Depeche Mode on a cold night springs to mind. Pale but still devilishly handsome could well have been the casting directors notes for male models this season. Back to the black - and while many included your regular black suit others borrowed from the 18th century with swishing capes, high waistlines and fur trimmed collars. And while that all sounds a bit theatrical and scary the bottom line is to expect plenty of full-length smart black coats next autumn.

 

 

A Tribute to Brokeback Mountain

It seems Brokeback Mountain has extended its appeal beyond the box office. As a result designers gave the film a nod with the odd western shirt and cowboy get-up. Valentino went one step further - he not only brought out the denim, checks and leather but got two male models to walk hand in hand down the catwalk.

 

 

 

Plush Stuff

Unlike the womenswear collections you could clearly see what season was on show thanks to the broad range of cosy coats and knitwear. Keeping those high street copy cats at bay designers continue to use top-notch fabrics that you can only get by paying that bit more. Velvet remains strong, in fact Armani couldn’t get enough of the stuff, along with fur-lined leathers, quilting and layering. Look no further than Raf Simons’ for coats that combine practicality and style - he attached two coats at the collar creating a double layer of warmth and volume.

 

 

 

The Eccentrics

From moody Teddy boys to Oliver Twist the eccentric male is back in town and dressing the part while he’s at it. Part functional, part theatrics looks include top hats and pomp at Dsquared, melancholy Teddy boys at Comme des Garcons and Dickensian London over at John Galliano.

 

 

Orientalism

Two seasons on and the Orient is still providing the design studios of Milan with a touch of inspiration. Kimono shapes, lacquer red, obi belts and intricate brocades keep the Eastern flavour going well into the next season.

 

Animal Magic

Apart from a check here and a stripe there you could say that Autumn/Winter 06/07 was a quiet season in terms of colour and print. There is, however, a touch of the Bet Lynch knocking around - and who can ignore it when Miuccia Prada is involved? Animal prints such as leopard spots covered shirts and ties at Prada, while Dries Van Noten and Valentino joined in with some animal prints of their own.

 

 

Check City

Checks were big news last autumn and while some included head-to-toe check appeal – as seen at Vivienne Westwood, the majority used check to liven up an otherwise plain outfit. From the bold and colourful to the fine and subtle checks proved to be a dominant trend once again on the Autumn/Winter designer catwalks.

 

 

By JoJo Iles

 

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